A great book that taught me much about modern Egypt through Hessler‘s engaging mix of reporting & personal stories. Sayyid the garbage collector a favourite (the friendship, & the intricacies of his job). I love his curiosity & open-mindedness - it‘s a pleasure to travel vicariously with him. Post- Arab Spring, the politics are interesting then bleak. People are warm & imaginative but the country poorly governed. Notably, sexism & poor education.